Albania rewards those who go beyond Tirana. The country packs extraordinary variety into a small space — Ottoman old towns, Adriatic beaches, mountains that rival Switzerland and a hospitality culture unlike anywhere else in Europe. This itinerary covers the country's highlights over 7–10 days.
✔ Currency: Albanian Lek (ALL). Always carry cash outside Tirana
✔ Getting around: rental car strongly recommended — unlocks everything
✔ Language: Albanian. Italian widely spoken, English among younger Albanians
✔ Safety: very safe — lower crime rate than most Western European countries
✔ Driving: mountain roads require care, especially after dark
Albania at a Glance
Albania is roughly the size of Belgium but feels much bigger — it takes 3.5 hours to drive from north to south on good roads, but the mountain detours and coastal stops make any journey an experience. The country has two distinct personalities: the Adriatic south (beaches, riviera, Greek ruins) and the mountainous north (Accursed Mountains, traditional villages, Shkodër). A good itinerary covers both.
Day 1–2: Tirana
Arrive at Tirana International Airport (TIA) — good connections from London, Rome, Vienna, Istanbul. Tirana is a genuinely good city: colourful Soviet-era architecture repainted in brilliant colours, excellent coffee culture, lively Blloku district bars and restaurants, and the National History Museum covering 5,000 years of Albanian history. Skanderbeg Square at dusk is the heart of the city. Eat at Era Restaurant (best traditional Albanian food in the capital) or any of the Blloku neighbourhood spots. Day 2: rent a car for the rest of the trip — essential for everything that follows.
Day 3: Berat — The City of a Thousand Windows
Drive south from Tirana (2 hours). Berat is one of Albania's two UNESCO-listed cities — an extraordinary Ottoman town built vertically on a hillside, with rows of identical white houses stacked above the Osum river. The castle at the top of the hill contains churches, a mosque and sweeping views. Walk through the old Mangalem and Gorica quarters. Stay overnight — the town is magical after the day-trippers leave. Budget €25–40/night for excellent guesthouses.
Day 4: Gjirokastër — The Stone City
Continue south (1.5 hours from Berat). Gjirokastër is Albania's second UNESCO city — entirely built from local grey stone, clinging to a dramatic hillside above the Drino Valley. The castle houses a military museum and has extraordinary views toward Greece. The old bazaar and traditional houses (particularly the Zekate House — extraordinary interior) are unmissable. Birthplace of both dictator Enver Hoxha and writer Ismail Kadare. Stay overnight — quieter and cheaper than the coast.
Day 5: Drive the Riviera — Himara & Dhermi
Head west toward the coast (1.5 hours from Gjirokastër via the Llogara Pass — one of Europe's most dramatic mountain road descents, from 1,000m to sea level in 20 minutes). Stop at the top of Llogara Pass for coffee and views. Dhermi is a beautiful village above a long pebble beach — clear turquoise water. Himara is more developed with excellent seafood restaurants on the waterfront. Stay 1–2 nights.
Book Albania Tours & Experiences
GetYourGuide and Viator — guided tours to the Riviera, Berat and Gjirokastër
Browse Albania Tours →Day 6: Saranda & Butrint
Drive north to Saranda (45 minutes from Himara). Saranda is Albania's main coastal resort — slightly overdeveloped but with good restaurants and the spectacular Lëkurësi Castle above the town with views toward Corfu. Most importantly: Butrint. A UNESCO World Heritage Site 18km south of Saranda — Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian ruins on a stunning lake peninsula. One of the finest archaeological sites in the Mediterranean. Allow 2–3 hours.
Day 7: Ksamil — The Jewel of the Riviera
Ksamil is 14km south of Saranda — four tiny islands just offshore, turquoise water shallow enough to wade to them, and beaches that genuinely rival the Greek islands at a fraction of the cost. Sunbeds cost €5 (compared to €25+ on Mykonos). Tavernas serve fresh fish for €8–12. This is one of the most beautiful places in Europe and almost nobody outside the region knows it. Stay 1–2 nights.
Day 8–9: Drive North — Return via Shkodër
Head north from Saranda back toward Tirana, stopping at Shkodër (3 hours from Saranda). Shkodër is Albania's second city — the most Italian-influenced town in the country (Venetian fortress of Rozafa, excellent cycling culture, pleasant old bazaar). Lake Shkodër is the largest lake in the Balkans and the shoreline is beautiful. Optional: half-day trip into the Accursed Mountains from Shkodër (Theth village, 2 hours on a rough road — worth every kilometre). Return to Tirana for departure.
Rent a Car for Albania
A rental car is essential for this itinerary — the Llogara Pass, Riviera beaches and mountain villages all require driving.
Compare Car Rental — DiscoverCars → Full guide →Skip the Luggage Hassle
Luggage Forward ships your bags directly between hotels — no dragging suitcases on trains, buses or through cobblestone streets. Book collection from your current hotel and it arrives at the next one before you do.
FAQs
Do I need a visa for Albania?
EU, UK, US, Canadian and Australian citizens do not need a visa for stays up to 90 days. Check your specific passport requirements before travelling.
Is a rental car necessary for Albania?
For the itinerary above, yes — strongly recommended. Buses exist between major cities but are slow and infrequent. A rental car unlocks the Riviera, Llogara Pass, Butrint and the mountain villages.
How much does Albania cost per day?
Budget travellers: €35–50/day. Mid-range: €60–90/day. This includes accommodation, food, fuel and sightseeing — significantly cheaper than any other European country.