Albania is genuinely off the beaten path by European standards — the infrastructure is improving rapidly but rural roads can be rough, ATMs are limited outside cities, and navigating the country without local knowledge requires preparation. These tips from experienced Albania travellers will make the difference.
Getting Around Albania
A hire car is strongly recommended for visiting the Albanian Riviera and the interior (Berat, Gjirokastër, Accursed Mountains). Roads on main routes (Tirana–Durrës, Tirana–Gjirokastër) are good; rural and mountain roads can be rough and potholed. Furgons (shared minivans) run between cities on informal schedules — cheap, authentic and slow. The new Tirana–Gjirokastër expressway (SH8) has significantly improved south-north journey times. Driving in Tirana city centre is stressful — park outside the centre and walk.
Money & Costs
Albania uses the Albanian Lek (ALL/L) — not the euro. Current rate approximately 100 L to €1. ATMs are available in Tirana, Sarandë, Gjirokastër and Shkodër but less reliable in rural areas — carry cash for small villages and local guesthouses. Many tourist businesses (hotels, restaurants in Sarandë and the Riviera) accept euros informally, but you'll get better value paying in lek. Albania is one of Europe's cheapest countries — budget €30–50/day is very comfortable.
The Albanian Riviera
The Riviera coast (Dhërmi, Himara, Borsh, Qeparo, Sarandë, Ksamil) is spectacular but requires a car to access properly. The SH8 road south of Vlorë follows the coast with extraordinary views but has steep sections and the occasional unguarded drop — drive carefully. Ksamil (4 islands and turquoise lagoons just north of the Greek border) is the finest beach area. July–August are very busy with Albanian domestic tourists — June and September are far better for the coast.
Berat & Gjirokastër
Both UNESCO-listed Ottoman cities deserve overnight stays rather than day trips. Berat ("City of a Thousand Windows") is best in late afternoon and evening when the light hits the white-painted houses above the Osum River. Gjirokastër's castle museum (including a captured US spy plane) and the Skenduli House (an extraordinary Ottoman mansion) are outstanding. The road between Gjirokastër and the Greek border (Kakavija crossing) is straightforward — a convenient entry/exit point for those coming from Greece.
Culture & Etiquette
Albanian hospitality (besa — keeping one's word and protecting guests) is genuine and remarkable. Locals who invite you for coffee or food are not expecting payment — accept graciously and reciprocate where possible. The double-headed eagle flag is everywhere — Albanian national identity is intense. Nodding means no in Albania (reversed from most European countries); shaking the head means yes. Ramadan (the Islamic fasting month, dates vary by year) is observed by many Albanians — some restaurants may have shorter hours in rural areas during this period.
✅ Do This in Albania
- ✔ Hire a car for the Riviera and interior — furgons and buses are too slow and infrequent
- ✔ Carry cash in lek for rural areas — ATMs are unreliable outside main cities
- ✔ Stay overnight in Berat and Gjirokastër — they deserve more than a day trip
- ✔ Visit the Riviera in June or September — July–August is very busy with domestic tourists
- ✔ Try the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër) spring near Gjirokastër — one of Albania's most extraordinary natural sights
- ✔ Accept hospitality when offered — Albanian guest culture is genuine and extraordinary
❌ Avoid These Mistakes
- ⚠️ Don't assume ATMs will work in rural areas — carry enough lek for 2–3 days
- ⚠️ Don't drive mountain roads at night — road conditions and visibility require daylight
- ⚠️ Don't underestimate journey times — Albanian roads are improving but still slower than EU motorways
- ⚠️ Don't confuse nodding and shaking in Albania — the gesture meanings are reversed from most countries
- ⚠️ Don't skip the Accursed Mountains — the Valbona–Theth hike is one of the finest in the Balkans
FAQs
Is Albania safe?
Generally yes for tourists. Albania has improved significantly in safety. The main cautions: drive carefully on mountain roads and carry cash for rural areas. Violent crime against tourists is very rare.
Do people speak English in Albania?
Younger Albanians widely speak English, Italian and sometimes Greek. In rural areas and with older generations, Italian is often more useful than English (strong historical connection). Basic Albanian phrases are very well received.
Can I use euros in Albania?
Informally yes, particularly in tourist areas. The official currency is the Albanian Lek. ATMs dispense lek; pay in lek for better value. Never change money on the street.
Is Albania good for solo travellers?
Yes — the hospitality culture makes solo travel in Albania particularly rewarding. Locals are often actively curious about foreign visitors and genuinely welcoming.