Split is Croatia's second city and the best base for Adriatic island hopping — but getting the most out of it requires knowing which ferry to take, when to visit Diocletian's Palace (not midday in summer), and how to avoid the tourist restaurant trap on the Riva waterfront.
Getting Around Split
Split's old town (Diocletian's Palace area) is entirely pedestrianised — no vehicles inside the walls. The Riva (waterfront promenade) is the main gathering point. The ferry port is immediately adjacent to the old town — you can walk from your accommodation to the ferry terminal in under 10 minutes. Local buses cover the wider city and beaches (€1.50/journey). Taxis: use Bolt or Uber for transparent pricing — significantly cheaper than street taxis. The island ferries (Jadrolinija) and catamarans (Krilo, Kapetan Luka) all depart from the same port area.
Island Ferries — Essential Knowledge
The Blue Cave & 5 Islands speedboat tour is the most popular Split day trip and sells out every day in summer — book before you arrive. The public Jadrolinija ferry to Hvar (Stari Grad) takes 2 hours and carries cars; the Krilo catamaran to Hvar Town takes 1 hour and is foot passengers only. For Brač island: ferry to Supetar (50 minutes). For Vis: catamaran (2.5 hours). Always buy your return ticket as soon as you arrive on any island — popular return sailings sell out and you may wait hours for the next one.
Money & Costs
Croatia joined the euro in January 2023 — everything is priced in euros. Cards widely accepted. Split is significantly cheaper than Dubrovnik — budget €70–100/day for comfortable independent travel. The Riva waterfront restaurants are tourist-priced: identical dishes cost 40–50% less one street back from the promenade. The Pazar market (daily, near the east gate of the palace) is the best place for cheap fresh produce, cheese and local olives.
Visiting Diocletian's Palace
The palace is free to enter and wander at any time — there are no gates or ticket booths for the general old town area. The underground cellars (€10), the Vestibule dome interior and the Cathedral (entry fee) have paid sections. The palace is at its most beautiful at 7am before the cruise ship passengers arrive and at sunset when the evening light turns the limestone orange. Midday in July–August is genuinely oppressive — the stone retains heat and the tourist density is maximum.
Safety & Scams
Split is very safe. The main tourist caution: restaurant menus near the Riva sometimes list prices without service charge (added at billing). Always check the menu carefully. The market sellers near the palace gates can be persistent but are not aggressive. Pickpockets are rare but exercise normal caution in very crowded areas during cruise ship days.
✅ Do This in Split
- ✔ Book the Blue Cave tour before arriving — it sells out every day in summer
- ✔ Visit the Palace at 7am for the best light and zero crowds
- ✔ Buy return island ferry tickets immediately on arrival at any island
- ✔ Eat at the Pazar market for cheap local food and excellent cheese
- ✔ Walk Marjan Hill for the finest free panoramic view of Split and the islands
- ✔ Use Bolt or Uber for city taxis — transparent pricing, significantly cheaper than street cabs
❌ Avoid These Mistakes
- ⚠️ Don't eat on the Riva promenade without checking prices — tourist premium is very significant
- ⚠️ Don't assume you can get the last Blue Cave tour on arrival day — it books out quickly
- ⚠️ Don't visit the palace cellars without the €10 ticket — the underground section is extraordinary
- ⚠️ Don't try to drive inside the old town — it's pedestrianised and surrounding parking is difficult
- ⚠️ Don't leave island return tickets to chance — popular sailings fill up fast
FAQs
Is Split safe?
Very safe — one of Croatia's safest cities. Standard urban precautions apply in the busy old town.
Do I need a car in Split?
No — for Split and the islands, everything is walkable or reachable by public ferry. A car is useful for Krka waterfalls and Trogir day trips but creates parking problems in the city.
What language is spoken in Split?
Croatian, but English is widely spoken in all tourist areas, restaurants and accommodation. Basic Croatian greetings (hvala — thank you, molim — please) are appreciated.
Can you swim in Split?
Yes — Bačvice beach (10 minutes walk from the old town) is the most famous. Kasjuni (Marjan peninsula, 20 minutes by bike) is more secluded. The islands accessible by ferry have far better swimming.